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- Clays and Slips
  - Low Fire ClaysEarthenware clays were some of the earliest clays used by potters, and it is the most common type of clay found. These clays are highly plastic (easily worked) and can be sticky. Earthenware clays contain iron and other mineral impurities which cause the clay to reach its optimum hardness at between 950°C and 1150°C. Low-fire clay can be fired up to Cone 3, or sometimes a little higher. Unlike mid and high fire, it never shrinks much or gets really strong and dense even when fired to its maximum temperature. The main advantage to using a low-fire clay when low firing is that your glazes may craze less than if you used a Cone 10 or Cone 6 clay. As always, you have to fire your glaze to the Cone that is specified for that glaze, regardless what clay you use. Just make sure you use a clay rated at least as high as the glaze.
  - Mid Fire ClaysMid-Fire Stoneware Clay Bodies are formulated to fire to maturity between 1160°C and 1225°C Mid-fire stoneware which are the Cone 3-6 clays, can also be used at low-fire or up to Cone 6, but not above their specified top temperature. Some of our clays overlap between low-fire, mid-fire and high-fire. Dinnerware for example it is best to use a Cone 5-6 clay if you fire to Cone 5-6. Remember, you have to fire your glaze to the Cone that is specified for that glaze, regardless what clay you use. Just make sure you use a clay rated at least as high as the glaze.
  - High Fire ClaysHigh-Fire Stoneware Clay Bodies fire to their mature hardness between 1200°C and 1300°C. Cone 10 clay can be used at low fire (Cone 04-06 or at Cone 6), but to reach its maximum strength it should be fired to Cone 10. That will cause the clay to shrink and become dense, and that is ideal, especially for dinnerware. You want as low absorption numbers on the stoneware and porcelain clay; for dinnerware, you want less than 3%. For sculpture you often want less shrinkage, and absorption doesn’t matter. So then firing Cone 10 clay at a lower temperature is ideal. Clays designed for sculpture have more “open” bodies so they don’t get as dense as other clays. An advantage of using Cone 10 clay is that you don’t have to worry about over firing your clay if you forget what Cone it is. For this reason, many schools and studios only allow Cone 10 clay. Cone 10 clay is also typically used for Raku, even though Raku is a low temperature process. Clays such as 1005 have good temperature shock absorption which is needed for Raku. Remember, you have to fire your glaze to the Cone that is specified for…
  - Air Dry ClaysSelf-hardening clay, also known as air-dried, air-hardening or non-firing clay, is perfect for beginners or anyone without a kiln. It can be used for handbuilding, throwing and sculpting. Self-hardening clay usually dries hard within several days to a durable surface, which may be painted with acrylic type paints. It is important to remember that they are not meant to replace kiln-fired ceramic clay and cannot be used to produce functional products. The products produced with this clay are purely for decorative purposes only. It cannot be fired and cannot hold liquid unless sealed on the inside.
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- Glazes and Stains
  - Earthenware Glazes (1040°C-1080°C)Glazes fire 1040°C-1080°C unless otherwise marked
    - U/C Earthenware Glazes (1020 – 1080)
    - Botz Brush on Earthenware Hobby Glazes
  - Mid Temp Glazes
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    - U/C Raku Glaze
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  - Underglazes
    - U/C Underglazes
    - Mayco UnderglazesGeneral Use: Shake well. Apply to wet clay, greenware, or cone 04 bisque; use for design or solid coverage, ﬁring range from cone 06 to cone 10. To intensify color or for use on dinnerware, apply clear or matte clear glaze. For use on clay or greenware, apply and allow to dry. Fire to shelf cone 04. If desired, apply clear glaze and reﬁre to cone 06-05 for earthenware and cone 5-10 for stoneware (999° C–1285 °C). For use on bisque, apply to cone 04 bisque, apply clear glaze if desired and reﬁre earthenware to cone 06 and cone 5-10 for stoneware. Do not spray apply. Apply 3 coats for opacity; fewer for design. Can be thinned for water-colour eﬀect. Apply to bisque, wet clay or greenware. Color can be applied with brush or sponge. Use in sgraﬃto, majolica, spatter or burnishing techniques. Intermixable for custom colors. Apply matte or gloss clear glaze to intensify color or for use with dinnerware. Check each product label for cone 10 results.
    - Spectrum Underglazes
    - U/C Leadless Underglaze Pencils
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  - ConesA pyrometer measures temperature, but pyrometric cones measure heatwork. They are made of the same ceramic materials as our wares, so cones respond to firing the same way our clays and glazes do. Cones are designed to respond at consistent intervals that, when the cones are used correctly, will remain consistent throughout the kiln and from one firing to the next. Pyrometric cones have several practical uses in the ceramics studio. As firing measurement, witness cones (viewed through a kiln spy/peep hole) are the most accurate measure of a kiln’s firing progress, and for deciding when to shut down the kiln. Since cones act like clay and glaze, some ceramic artists fire “cones only” (often for wood, salt, and raku)—no pyrometers, kiln sitters, etc. Cones are good safety nets in both computer- and sitter-fired kilns. In addition, they are important for calibrating your kiln sitters and customized firing schedules. Using cone packs throughout a kiln can give information about the evenness of the heatwork throughout the kiln, and stacking adjustments can be made to minimize cone differences. Even atmosphere and ventilation information can come from your cones (bloating, colour change, hardshelling). Always wear appropriately rated welding goggles when viewing cones…
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Pugmills

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Pugmills

2″ Horizontal Pugmill

70mm De-Airing Horizontal Pugmill

3″ Horizontal Pugmill

3.5″ Shimpo Pugmill

3.5″ De-Airing Shimpo Pugmill

3″ Vertical Pugmill

4″ Vertical Pugmill

Die Plates For 2″ & 3″ Pugmills

Stand For 2″ & 3″ Pugmills

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